New World Datsuns...

Oh yeah passengers outer cv-joint boot is bad.
010 by 71240z, on Flickr
It was going to have to come out anyways to do the seal.
May just tackle it after the new motor is in and running first.

I have always heard those CV axles were cake to do...

Yeah... ! Doesn't look too hard to do. This would be my first change out on a Volvo.

Not really any harder or easier than most. Just make sure you use a new axle bolt (the one that goes into the end) when you swap it out. Google "axle ping" to see why.

Good to know thank you for the tip DRIVEN !
Does the same apply to the axle nut on the axle ping-ing issue ?
It looks like I nay have a 30-something-mm nut on the end (just at a glance haven't really looked unless there's something I'm totally missing).
I've apparently gone most my life changing cv-axles without realizing there was a pinging issue dealio .. doh ! lol

AFAIK the ping only applies to the Volvos that use a long bolt (13mm? head) with a washer in the outer end. If your axle is the typical threaded stub with the big nut than nevermind. I've only run into the problem once on a 2003ish XC. After some research I found out it's a pretty common thing for all platforms in that vintage. Thought I'd mention it.

Good info DRIVEN ! Def worth mentioning and knowing for sure.

Playing lazy guy today.
Just popped off both exhaust manifolds off to switch them.
Took a look at the valves on the bad engine through the ports.... intakes look all the way up and good/faces are all there not bent looking .... exhaust distances of travel on the stem/face (well... at least where I can see at least .. we all know what it's like ... gotta find my little inspection mirror first though !) "appear" to be good/same as well.
By golly ! *plays banjo* the head off the old engines HEAD .... might be just fine ... of course will proceed with diligence ... will confirm by pulling the head off it at a later date for a looksy. (when replacement engine is in and running .... whenever that will be lol)
Really considering myself very lucky/fortunate if all is good.
This makes Blue for the moment.
Either way I plan on keeping the head , so it'll get pulled in the end.

Swvedish.
In all seriousness will dive back into shortly in the next bit to get it done.
Just need a day off or so from everything.

Not much of an update
-Switched over Knock sensors
-Switched over Crankshaft speed sensor
-Made triple sure the PCV system is a-ok ready to go
-Need (6) vacuum elbows .. 2 for pcv vacuum (one on the passengers intake was cracked to hell) ... (4) for the air-valve to solenoid thingy (white vacuum line).
-Need a larger vacuum line to intake just by the throttle body directly into intake nipple. Can't remember what it's called , but looks to go to the smog pump something something darkside (tired).
-Blew out any remaining water with air , and checked all spark plugs. All are "good". NOTED: all were hand tight when pulled out , so it looks like someone actually did do a compression check (written in yellow paint in the earlier pics) on this bad boy. Used LED flashlight , and doesn't look like water made it down the cylinders , and all carbon remained intact on top of the pistons (glad to see to be honest). Applied anti-seize to spark plug threads , and moved on.
-Changed over exhaust manifold from bad engine to replacement engine. Looks to be the "kinked" one at the flex-pipe might have been alright after-all *shrug*.
-Put in newer cap , rotor , wires from bad engine to replacement engine. Cleaned them carefully/quickly-ish. Will replace if need be in car , but getting it started before pouring mo money for mo problems nahimean ?
-Will run to the store , and "might" bypass one of these ridiculous (yet aesthetically pleasing looking) vacuum lines. Might use some high-temp silicone from IPD (ironically they seem to be the cheapest) or just some cheapo stuff from wherever. May just buy the vacuum elbows to use as well. Who knows.
-Radiator looks fine , held coolant , etc. Once running I'll decide whether to replace or not. The tanks look ok , and would be nice to know how to detect a potential/early failure. Radiator hoses look good. Heater core hoses look good. The expansion tank drain hose (bottle to block) seems a bit soft at the block connection. Will def replace if the replacement engine is "good". On the list. Might replace the lower radiator hose at the same time , but seems to be fine for a couple more years ? Just trying to avoid an over-heating situation (hard to no matter what ??? idk).

--------Tasks before engine goes in -----------
*Install new (+) battery cable through harness to starter (relay box to battery cable looks good and good inside the box connection).
*Install new torque converter front seal (is dry for now just don't want to pull either again unless they fail .... $7 seal ya know ? )
*Carefully inspect ... look for potential problems (hoses/wires/etc) that are an easy fix while engines out type thing.

Enough of my bullshit ^^^ lolz

006 by 71240z, on Flickr

Good on left , Questionable on right (hard to see the kink in the flex-pipe at the bottom).
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That's it for now. Lots of talking. Not enough work... $#%^ !!!
lol

All THAT ^^^ being rambled about...
The replacement engine should be ready to drop in now.
Just like to triple check everything before doing so.

BLUE

Crappy cell pics. On with it.
20140723_165202 by 71240z, on Flickr

20140723_164038 by 71240z, on Flickr
Seal surface looks good to me.
20140723_163648 by 71240z, on Flickr

20140723_163836 by 71240z, on Flickr

Recycled pic..., but installed/back on. Converter was aprox .5" inch away from bell-face (for correct depth check). Good to go.
20140723_165202 by 71240z, on Flickr

Engines in , bell-housing bolts hooked up , engine mounts as well , torque converter t50 bolts , and some etc.
Started hooking up small stuff , and electrical
20140723_194544 by 71240z, on Flickr

Put this in/on the down-pipe exhaust flange , and started laughing as things were going TOO smoothly when I quickly heard a *ting ting roll roll....ting!*
20140723_194524 by 71240z, on Flickr
Broke a lower drivers side stud ... ... will have to fish out the stud with a magnet in the cat I believe ? (or pull the exhaust if it comes to it) later before the startup obviously .

sweet man

I forget, what's the deal on this? YOu gonna be rocking it or was this for a flip?

Thank ya gents.

Miss the old 740 turbo Volvo , and this one will take it's place.
Am just getting another reliable enough daily ready for myself to enjoy driving into the ground.
No plan on flipping really as it's a car I quite like , but if a total stranger walked up with a high ^^^ cash figure price... it would be hard not to consider

These arn't cheap to fix , then again not much is anymore really lol (not horrible either though)

Now

Can't get the d#$n serpentine belt not sure what I've been doing wrong today.
Even had a second set of hands that was as stumped as I.
Part # = good.
Routing was good. Manual says the same. Youtube FCPeuro says the same way (idler last).
Will try another belt tomorrow that I already have on hand (CHEAP new... serp belt lol).
If that doesn't work will have my bro help me out.
If this doesn't make someone feel dumb I'm not sure I wanna know what will
Done quite a few different serp belts without any real hassle ...kinda weird....
derrrr derrrrr DERRRRR ... probably is me .

--- On with it BLUE !!!----
- Exhaust on.
- Battery in.
- Oil and coolant in.
- New cap and rotor (cleaned the old one + kept just in case).
- Filled oil filter before install
- Un-plugged injectors and coil wire.
- Cranked engine over for a total of 12-seconds in 3 seperate intervals.
- Connected injectors and coil wire.
- Fire her up.

VIDEO = https://www.flickr.com/gp/blue73/z2qHdE
NOTES: Insulation on firewall was dug into by me... rear manifold down-pipe studs as it was lowered in , cv joint bracket line up , clearance etc = not bad just was a noob at doing it . I also got rid of the white and purple vacuum lines with line from NAPA. As well as a couple of other vacuum lines that needed to be replaced. Just have to shortenen the length on one and make it look nicer lol. The dandelion was a good luck charm from my 4-year old niece lol.

- Engine ran very good .. no knocks .. odd noises.... not present. Had 1 or 2 lifters that seemed like that had to pump up (at most ! ). Within 5-minutes it quieted down to half the rate of the initial sound. Temp gauge stayed about a hair above half. At about 7-minutes the engine was very quiet. Don't see any engine oil coming from the rear-main. Don't see any transmission fluid coming from the torque converter seal. Coolant level is good. PCV system appears to be working well. Took some video. It makes it sound harsher than it really sounds in person. Of course video can do that. Will get that damned serpentine belt on tomorrow. Flipping belt !! wtf. Once it's on I can see/clear ... codes to see what pops up if anything.


Gave her a bath after she deserved it.
017 by 71240z, on Flickr
Oh yeah the gas door flapper is broken , but not really concerned about that at this very minute. Apparently a common thing. meh.
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Sunroof , windows , A/C , Air , Heater , and all that works.
Haven't tested the radio probably need the code first.. err.. hmm

So classy.

I likey. Looks good and man & you're putting alot of work in (by my standards anyway).

Told my father-in-law my next daily will probably be a Subaru Outback. He said "a wagon?!"
I replied "would you rather drive a minivan?"

He said "now I understand"

Wagons are just so ridiculously useful. I've gotten pretty good at Subaru head gaskets over the last couple years. Typically necessary anywhere from 90-140K. But by that time most are due for a timing belt, water pump, and oil leak repair anyway. Pull the engine to do the job and it's about a 6-7 hour task.

Ok so that's something I will take into consideration. Of course I'll ask the opinions of you guys when it comes time.


Dammit, sometimes ignorance truly is bliss until it rapes your wallet.


Sorry for the threadjack David, carry on with the awesomeness.

DRIVEN » Tue Jul 29, 2014 6:06 am wrote:So classy.

indeed thanks DRIVEN !

Taterhead wrote:I likey. Looks good and man & you're putting alot of work in (by my standards anyway).

Told my father-in-law my next daily will probably be a Subaru Outback. He said "a wagon?!"
I replied "would you rather drive a minivan?"

He said "now I understand"

Thanks James ! It's a lot of work by my standards as well

Subaru Outbacks , wagons , impreza sport wagons are all cool man
I use to drive around in a 91' Legacy 2.2 a/t wagon.
Loved the thing for 70K ? .
It was kinda beater and kinda not lol.
I Looked around years ago for an Impreza sport wagon , and they were either snatched up right/left or needing to much work or too much money for what it was
You'll love the thing to death once it's time though.

DRIVEN wrote:Wagons are just so ridiculously useful. I've gotten pretty good at Subaru head gaskets over the last couple years. Typically necessary anywhere from 90-140K. But by that time most are due for a timing belt, water pump, and oil leak repair anyway. Pull the engine to do the job and it's about a 6-7 hour task.

Exactly ! Wise words ^^^ , and oh yesh... is most def easier to just pull the engine to do all that + more

Taterhead wrote:Ok so that's something I will take into consideration. Of course I'll ask the opinions of you guys when it comes time.


Dammit, sometimes ignorance truly is bliss until it rapes your wallet.


Sorry for the threadjack David, carry on with the awesomeness.

No need for sorry James ! .
Feel free to chat in here as much as you want on your stuff or advice on the Subaru Outback wagon