LZ23 engine build

User avatar
flatcat19
Posts: 5233
Joined: Thu Jun 27, 2013 11:53 am
Title: AKA Smoke
Cars: Smaller. Better. Slower. Lower.
Location: Where you aren't.
Has thanked: 12 times
Been thanked: 32 times

Re: LZ23 engine build

#21

Post by flatcat19 » Thu Sep 01, 2016 5:18 pm

All I have here is a W53. No help to offer.

User avatar
wayno
Posts: 5211
Joined: Thu Jun 27, 2013 8:44 pm
Location: Vancouver WA
Has thanked: 403 times
Been thanked: 1244 times

Re: LZ23 engine build

#22

Post by wayno » Fri Sep 02, 2016 10:23 pm

Parts didn't arrive as expected, hoping they arrive tomorrow.
Since it is raining I was hoping to get the engine put together, late next week the weather is supposed to improve, so I plan on putting on another coat of primer on it, and then painting it.
I cleaned and painted the oil pan I planned to use today, then I realized that I might not be able to use the L16 oil pan as this is a 86 Nissan 720 frame, not a 520/521 frame, I actually measured the oil pan on it and don't think it is the same.
Image

Image
“The difference between genius and stupidly is that genius has its limits” Albert Einstein

User avatar
flatcat19
Posts: 5233
Joined: Thu Jun 27, 2013 11:53 am
Title: AKA Smoke
Cars: Smaller. Better. Slower. Lower.
Location: Where you aren't.
Has thanked: 12 times
Been thanked: 32 times

Re: LZ23 engine build

#23

Post by flatcat19 » Sat Sep 03, 2016 4:46 pm

Wouldn't you need a 720 L20B pan?

User avatar
wayno
Posts: 5211
Joined: Thu Jun 27, 2013 8:44 pm
Location: Vancouver WA
Has thanked: 403 times
Been thanked: 1244 times

Re: LZ23 engine build

#24

Post by wayno » Sat Sep 03, 2016 5:44 pm

flatcat19 wrote:Wouldn't you need a 720 L20B pan?
What I have in it is working, so I will measure it again and figure it out, I have quite a few oil pans around here, one of them will work, if not then I will use the one in there now, just won't be perdy. :lol:
“The difference between genius and stupidly is that genius has its limits” Albert Einstein

User avatar
wayno
Posts: 5211
Joined: Thu Jun 27, 2013 8:44 pm
Location: Vancouver WA
Has thanked: 403 times
Been thanked: 1244 times

Re: LZ23 engine build

#25

Post by wayno » Sat Sep 03, 2016 5:56 pm

Oh yea, the ARP stud kit came today, Yea! :)
This is where I started today, I took the interior completely out and removed the duct tape I used to cover the sifter holes.
Image
Then I made covers for the holes in front of the shift lever.
Image
Then I made a small one for the shift lever itself
Image
Now it is ready, I put rust inhibitor everywhere there was rust, I also made the shift lever hole square, I needed a little more clearance.
Image
Now I have to decide if I am going to just put sound deadening down the way it is, or prime everything inside and then paint it, painting it is a major hassle, but it would look better until I put the sound deadening in covering most of it up.
Also I keep looking at the original color, this dark reddish color, wonder what that color is called, the floor color, not the door color.
“The difference between genius and stupidly is that genius has its limits” Albert Einstein

User avatar
wayno
Posts: 5211
Joined: Thu Jun 27, 2013 8:44 pm
Location: Vancouver WA
Has thanked: 403 times
Been thanked: 1244 times

Re: LZ23 engine build

#26

Post by wayno » Sat Sep 03, 2016 7:43 pm

The head is on and torqued down to 60lbs as per directions that came with the stud kit.
I will probably put the timing chain kit in tomorrow, done enough today.
Image
Need to put more assembly lube on the cam lobes, what was on there has dried out over the last few years of it sitting in my parts room.
“The difference between genius and stupidly is that genius has its limits” Albert Einstein

User avatar
Taterhead
Posts: 2462
Joined: Thu Jul 11, 2013 4:18 am
Cars: '71 510 - Mine
'72 510 - Sons
Location: Central Alabama
Has thanked: 1309 times
Been thanked: 219 times

Re: LZ23 engine build

#27

Post by Taterhead » Sun Sep 04, 2016 3:37 pm

Not sure if this will help you or not Wayne but this is a U67 head

Image

Image

This is a "210" head


Image

Image

User avatar
wayno
Posts: 5211
Joined: Thu Jun 27, 2013 8:44 pm
Location: Vancouver WA
Has thanked: 403 times
Been thanked: 1244 times

Re: LZ23 engine build

#28

Post by wayno » Sun Sep 04, 2016 4:00 pm

Thanks for the photos Taterhead, that U67 head doesn't have the holes either, I have a couple 210 heads here, I wonder why the holes are even in the head gaskets.

I have figured out that I don't have a few parts, one is the distributor/oil pump drive shaft, I am having a hard time with that part missing in my box that I had the L20b front cover in, that is just one of them things that I keep, I know I will need it, I have one for the Z block, but it appears to be too short.
I also don't have the water outlet just over the alternator that the main hose connects to, I have one but it doesn't have the outlet that points straight up that goes to the thermostat housing and intake manifold, the one I have must be for a Z block.
I am also missing that one really long 10mm head bolt that goes thru the timing chain cover that holds the water pump/timing chain cover on, that thing is freaking long.
“The difference between genius and stupidly is that genius has its limits” Albert Einstein

User avatar
wayno
Posts: 5211
Joined: Thu Jun 27, 2013 8:44 pm
Location: Vancouver WA
Has thanked: 403 times
Been thanked: 1244 times

Re: LZ23 engine build

#29

Post by wayno » Sun Sep 04, 2016 4:11 pm

I messed up and posted in the wrong thread, I will save this spot for my next post. :)
“The difference between genius and stupidly is that genius has its limits” Albert Einstein

User avatar
wayno
Posts: 5211
Joined: Thu Jun 27, 2013 8:44 pm
Location: Vancouver WA
Has thanked: 403 times
Been thanked: 1244 times

Re: LZ23 engine build

#30

Post by wayno » Mon Sep 05, 2016 2:55 pm

I picked this stuff up at the wrecking yard today for the engine/truck, the oil pump drive shaft is correct, the water outlet is correct, the engine case breather tube is correct, the 4 blots to hold the oil pump are correct, the brake booster was wrong, oh well, I forgot to measure my bad one before I left the house, took a chance, I paid $22.something for everything.
Image
There is a 1979 Z car alternator bracket in there also, all the mount holes don't all line up, but I believe it will work, it mounts the alternator lower so it fits under the water outlet above it, I use early 1980s internally regulated alternators from 720s, they are a bit larger than the externally regulated alternators these engines came with.
“The difference between genius and stupidly is that genius has its limits” Albert Einstein

User avatar
wayno
Posts: 5211
Joined: Thu Jun 27, 2013 8:44 pm
Location: Vancouver WA
Has thanked: 403 times
Been thanked: 1244 times

Re: LZ23 engine build

#31

Post by wayno » Mon Sep 05, 2016 9:15 pm

I have a lot left to do to this engine, but going to get back to the body work and paint after the rain tomorrow, the rest of the week is supposed to be dry according to the weather man anyway.
Image

Image
“The difference between genius and stupidly is that genius has its limits” Albert Einstein

User avatar
wayno
Posts: 5211
Joined: Thu Jun 27, 2013 8:44 pm
Location: Vancouver WA
Has thanked: 403 times
Been thanked: 1244 times

Re: LZ23 engine build

#32

Post by wayno » Sat Sep 17, 2016 8:59 pm

I have the oil pump, oil filter, and plugs now.
After reading the Jason Grey info again I just realized I could have made a long rod engine, kinda regret that, would have been nice to make something new/different.
No big hurry though, I will be painting the engine compartment before dropping this engine into the 520 ute, I also need to change out the brake booster and make new better routed brake lines.
“The difference between genius and stupidly is that genius has its limits” Albert Einstein

User avatar
HRH
Posts: 2354
Joined: Sat Jan 18, 2014 8:54 pm
Cars: Lots
Location: Near flatcat
Has thanked: 145 times
Been thanked: 644 times

Re: LZ23 engine build

#33

Post by HRH » Tue Nov 29, 2016 9:26 pm

Sweet build Wayno! I fondly remember the LZ20 long rod build I did for the 510 many moons back. Best combo I've had without getting the extra crank throw of the Z22. By the way, I still have a Z22 crank ready to go in the garage. .020 under on rods, .010 under on mains. In case you need one.
"Self proclaimed most active poster on NWD." - Me

User avatar
wayno
Posts: 5211
Joined: Thu Jun 27, 2013 8:44 pm
Location: Vancouver WA
Has thanked: 403 times
Been thanked: 1244 times

Re: LZ23 engine build

#34

Post by wayno » Tue Nov 29, 2016 9:48 pm

I actually have a Z20 long rod block in the shed right now, I thought being it was a Z20S that it wasn't anything special, but when I tore it down to scrap most of it I found flat top pistons and long rods.
Do long rod engines rev smoother?
By the way, this LZ23 engine is still sitting in the same exact spot it was a month ago. :lol:
“The difference between genius and stupidly is that genius has its limits” Albert Einstein

User avatar
HRH
Posts: 2354
Joined: Sat Jan 18, 2014 8:54 pm
Cars: Lots
Location: Near flatcat
Has thanked: 145 times
Been thanked: 644 times

Re: LZ23 engine build

#35

Post by HRH » Tue Nov 29, 2016 10:11 pm

The Z20E combo I did with the U67 head revved super smooth, but I don't think longer rods would help that. Z20S are only slightly dished, but from the carbureted trucks. Z20E are from the EFI cars and have the longer rods, but shorter piston height that is completely flat top minus some valve reliefs. The truck block ones aren't worth spit, the car ones make fun motors.
"Self proclaimed most active poster on NWD." - Me

User avatar
wayno
Posts: 5211
Joined: Thu Jun 27, 2013 8:44 pm
Location: Vancouver WA
Has thanked: 403 times
Been thanked: 1244 times

Re: LZ23 engine build

#36

Post by wayno » Tue Nov 29, 2016 10:18 pm

This engine has 6 inch rods(152.5mm), I have measured them, and it has flat top pistons with valve reliefs.
The block came out of a 1980/81 Datsun 510.
Image

Image
“The difference between genius and stupidly is that genius has its limits” Albert Einstein

User avatar
Laecaon
Site Admin
Posts: 4787
Joined: Wed Jun 26, 2013 7:21 pm
Cars: '71 510 Wagon, 02 BMW 325i Wagon
Location: PDX, West side.
Has thanked: 288 times
Been thanked: 329 times

Re: LZ23 engine build

#37

Post by Laecaon » Wed Nov 30, 2016 10:11 pm

Long rod motors have less angle change throughout the circular motion. This means less sideways force on the piston/crank. This means, it should rev smoother. On top of that, if you can get an over square motor (Bore diameter larger than Stroke), that helps with high rpms as it reduces piston speeds. It makes the motor smoother for higher revving.

My 87mm bore L18 loved to rev, so sweat could float the valves (@7200rpm).

User avatar
HRH
Posts: 2354
Joined: Sat Jan 18, 2014 8:54 pm
Cars: Lots
Location: Near flatcat
Has thanked: 145 times
Been thanked: 644 times

Re: LZ23 engine build

#38

Post by HRH » Thu Dec 01, 2016 12:17 pm

Good point, hadn't thought about that.
"Self proclaimed most active poster on NWD." - Me

Post Reply